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Any Macau guide will say you can buy ferry tickets on the day of your departure, but it’s best to pre-book as there can be long stand-by lines to get onto ferries, particularly on weekends and public holidays.Be sure to leave enough time for customs procedures at either end.

Suddenly, the limelight shifted from this UNESCO World Heritage Site to spinning roulette wheels, Italian gondolas and hallucinogenic neon, while one survivor, Lord Stow's Bakery (that made Macau famous for its egg tarts), determinedly hung on, even expanding from its Coloane base to The Venetian hotel and elsewhere. The showy extravagance of this flamboyant Special Administrative Region (SAR) didn’t stop there.

For now you can still enjoy that first glimpse of Macau’s kooky skyline and dramatic flyover bridges as you gently rock into port.

You can also enter Macau from China, through the Cotai frontier post or the “Barrier Gate” on the northern border of Macau. Fly in by helicopter (a 15-minute flight from Hong Kong; one-way ticket from HK,700, tel: [852] 2108-9898; like the big boys do. You can also catch flights to a range of destinations from Macau International Airport.

Again, expect to pay more for a ticket on weekends.

First Ferry (com.hk) operates a service between Tsim Sha Tsui, Hong Kong and Macau.

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Perhaps not surprisingly, shopping in Macau has also become a major attraction for Chinese visitors with luxury retail arcades and high-street stores a feature of most resort developments.